El Escorial and Valle de los Caídos

Monastery at El Escorial

Today, I caught a bus out of Madrid for a day trip in the nearby mountains. Specifically, I went to the village of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, or El Escorial, for short. This village was the historical residence of the King of Spain in the latter half of the 16th century, serving a similar function, I suppose, as did Versailles for French royalty. It was removed from the common masses in Madrid, just as Versailles was removed from Paris, allowing its blue-blooded inhabitants to maintain a discreet distance from the rabble over which they ruled.

Monastery facade

Today, El Escorial is a popular tourist destination, its principle features being the eponymous monastery, where rest many Spanish regents, and the nearby Valle de los Caídos (Valley of the Fallen) which is a memorial for those killed in Spain's guerra civil.

A tour through these two attractions reinforces the very obvious fact that Spain and the Catholic Church are forever entwined. Even though most Spaniards today do not actively practice their religion, Spanish culture is entirely inculcated with Catholic culture and morals. Once a Catholic, always a Catholic is what I say, although I have several "recovering Catholic" friends who vociferously disagree.

Tombs within the monastery

Both the monastery and the Valle de los Caídos have Catholic basilicas and are holy places. It is not uncommon to see visitors genuflect and kneel at the pews, heads bowed in prayer.

Chapel ceiling in the monastery

I enjoyed touring the monastery, but the real treat for me was the Valle de los Caídos. It rests nestled in the high wooded slopes above and to the north of the town. It is a solemn place of stone and silence.

Entrance to the basilica at Valle de los Caídos

Valle de los Caídos, as I said before, was dedicated as a war memorial for those who were killed in the Spanish Civil War; both Nationalists and Republicans. The monument was conceived by Francisco Franco who, of course, led the Nationalists to victory after 4 bloody years of war. Well, say what you want about Franco, and I'm no fan of fascists, but the memorial itself is a beautiful and moving experience for visitors.

Tiled mosaic on the ceiling of the basilica in Valle de los Caídos

(If you want to know more about the Spanish civil war, with all its tragedy, heroics, and romance, I recommend two works: For Whom the Bell Tolls, by Ernest Hemingway (of course), and a little known film by Ken Loach called "Land and Freedom.")

On a personal note, my father, Ross Cariaga, Junior, has been in my thoughts a lot on this trip. His deathbed wish was that I convert to Catholicism, so I suppose it's only natural that touring all these Catholic holy sights would summon his ghost. But I don't want to ruminate on it over much. Instead, I'll end with a few more (very Catholic) photos, including some from yesterday's visit to Catedrál Almudena in Madrid.

Holy family on the road (inside El Escorial monastery)

In the town of El Escorial

Crucifix above the Valle de los Caídos

Artwork in the monastery

Mary and Jesus in the Catedrál Almudena

Schoolgirls in Madrid

Crypts beneath Catedrál Almudena

Stained glass in Catedrál Almudena

Spanish schoolboys

A Station of the Cross in Catedrál Almudena